![]() Btw I love their bulletproof carabiner I use with it, it will last ages.Īhh yes I love climbing gear, the technical, the functional and manufacturing side of it. Jul2 has optimum size, basically made from one piece of steel and lever long enough for the purpose. Smart compared to Jul2 is just bigger and quite over-engineered in my opinion, and due to construction I expect it to be less durable. So I wouldn’t called it “much more ergonomic”, if anything BD Pilot seems the most ergonomic. I’ve tried Mammut Smart and only more ergonomic thing is that it has longer lever (spelling?), but there’re those plates edges, that are not something I would choose to use in a handheld design (you still touch them when attaching to harness or feeding a rope through the device). And now we can disagree on which one is better haha ![]() For years only option was an expensive, complicated and heavy gri gri. It’s awesome that there’re now many choices on the market and everyone can choose whatever suits them best. ![]() Maybe they meant well, but given that I had no trouble with the atc previously, as they would have seen, makes me wonder about how genuine they were.īut maybe I'm being overly suspicious, and should be happy they are interested in everyone's safety? Can we expect that people know how to belay with multiple devices, and to say if they are offered gear they don't know how to use? And while I'd agree that making someone belay with a device they aren't familiar with has disaster potential, that definitely wasn't the case, and I would imagine most climbers have reasonable familiarity with a grigri. However, a pair of guys nearby felt the need to comment that it is dangerous to make the belayer switch to another device. I would also expect that my belayer would swap if I asked. I think it's super important that the leader is comfortable and confident while climbing so that everyone can have a good time. I thought nothing of it, and happily swapped. When I got paired with a guy I climb with a little less often, he asked that I swap to belay with a grigri (he was going for a familiar, easy warm-up, so I has reached for the atc). Outdoors I still tend to go for a grigri, for a fear of getting knocked out by falling rocks/gear, and occasionally have belayed with other devices as well.ĭuring a recent indoor lead session with my usual climbing group, we had an uneven number and sort of rotating pairs. As a background, while belaying a lead climber, indoor I usually prefer a grigri if the climber is working a route and expects to be hangdogging, or if they are trying to flash at their limit, but generally use an atc if they are aiming for an easy flash or a redpoint on a previous worked route (I've once short-roped a partner while he tried a flash when I jammed a grigri, and I feel forever scarred).
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